Method of manufacturing ornamental element

ABSTRACT

An ornamental element for use as a decorative addition to jewelry comprises a strip of material having a plurality of parts integrally formed from the material, each of the parts having a surface exposed at the periphery of the strip. The surface of each part is characterized by a first portion of a given configuration and a second portion of different configuration. The second portions of the parts are randomly positioned about the axis of the integral strip to effect an irregular but attractive profile. The method of manufacturing the element comprises providing a strip of material having a plurality of parts proximately and adjacently arranged along the axis of the strip, compressing the parts to alter the configuration thereof and twisting the strip to rotatably position the altered portions randomly at different locations about the axis of the strip. In the most preferred embodiment, a plurality of strands of metallic material such as gold are combined so as to provide a spirally wound strand extending axially on a core strand. The strip is then flattened, as by passing it between a pair of rollers. The flattened strip is then twisted until the flattened portions are randomly positioned about the axis of the strip.

United States Patent [151 3,667,098 Levy 1 June 6, 1972 [54] METHOD OFMANUFACTURING Primary Examiner-John F. Campbell ORNAMENTAL ELEMENT [72]Inventor: Eliezer Levy, Bay Shore, NY.

[73] Assignee: Filigree Arts Inc., New York, NY.

[22] Filed: July 24, 1969 I [2]] Appl. No.: 844,518

[52] U.S. Cl ..29/l60.6, 29/191 .6, 63/2,

161/7, 161/173 [51] Int. Cl. ..B2lf 43/00, B23p 13/00 [58] Field ofSearch ..29/160.6; 63/2, 3, 4; 161/7, 161/173, 175; 156/195 [56]References Cited UNlTED STATES PATENTS 450,412 4/1891 Knight ..29/19l.61,992,873 2/1935 Mayer et a1... ..161/29 2,107,677 2/1938 Sexton..16l/l73 X 2,197,615 4/1940 Kelman ..57/139 2,578,743 12/1951Rosenthal. ..l6l/173 X 3,165,825 l/l965 Barney ..29/160.6 X

Assistant ExaminerVictor A. Di Palma Attorney-James and Franklin [57]ABSTRACT An ornamental element for use as a decorative addition tojewelry comprises a strip of material having a plurality of partsintegrally formed from the material, each of the parts having a surfaceexposed at the periphery of the strip. The surface of each part ischaracterized by a first portion of a given configuration and a secondportion of different configuration. The second portions of the parts arerandomly positioned about the axis of the integral strip to effect anirregular but attractive profile. The method of manufacturing theelement comprises providing a strip of material having a plurality ofparts proximately and adjacently arranged along the axis of the strip,compressing the parts to alter the configuration thereof and twistingthe strip to rotatably position the altered portions randomly atdifferent locations about the axis of the strip. 1n the most preferredembodiment, a plurality of strands of metallic material such as gold arecombined so as to provide a spirally wound strand extending axially on acore strand. The strip is then flattened, as by passing it between apair of rollers. The flattened strip is then twisted until the flattenedportions are randomly positioned about the axis of the strip'.

16 Claims, 8 Drawing Figures P'ATENTEnJun s 1972 ANNEALING CHAMBER FIG.4

wll-lhlllllllllllll I'll llllllllll' l 'l N VENI ()R. ELIEZER LEVY )MMMMETHOD OF MANUFACTURING ORNAMENTAL ELEMENT This invention relates to anornamental article, and more specifically to an ornamental element whichis employed as an addition to various kinds of jewelry.

Jewelry products are available to the public in a wide variety ofshapes, sizes and degree of ornamentation. Items such as rings, watches,bracelets, pins and the like can be purchased in virtually any form,ranging from a relatively inexpensive type of costume jewelry toexpensive precious stones. The inexpensive costume jewelry isnecessarily limited with respect to decorative appearance since it mustbe manufactured at a very low cost if it is to be economically marketed.As a result, the consumer has less of a variety of ornamental designsand arrays available to him, and more importantly, the visualattractiveness of such products is generally quite distinguishable fromthe more expensive jewelry.

In an effort to minimize the difference between the appearance of theinexpensive and expensive types of jewlry, manufacturers generallyattempt to add inexpensive and sometimes colorful elements to a basicjewelry member. Thus, a ring may have certain engraved designs or abracelet may be provided with certain additions which tend to improvethe overall appearance of the device. One such addition has beencommonly termed a filigree" in the jewelry art, and it comprises severalmetallic strands which are wound together to form a plied strip which isthen flattened. The flattened strip is added to a piece of jewelry atsome position on the surface thereof to provide additionalornamentation. However, the rather plain appearance of this type ofaddition detracts to a large extent from the improved appearance whichit is intended to provide.

it is the primary object of this invention, therefore, to provide anornamental element which is inexpensive to manufacture and yet issufficiently attractive so that when it is added to jewelrya noticeablyimproved appearance results.

It is another object of this invention to provide a method ofmanufacturing an ornamental element which is characterized by simplicityand economy.

The aforementioned objects are realized by an ornamental element whichcomprises a strip of material having a plurality of parts integrallyformed from the material, the parts being proximately and adjacentlyarranged along the axis of said strip. Each of the parts has a surfacewhich is exposed at the periphery of the strip, and which ischaracterized by a first portion of a given configuration, and a secondpartion of a different configuration. The second portions of the partsare rotatively positioned at different locations about the longitudinalaxis of the strip so as to form an outer surface on the strip which hasan irregular and attractive profile. The irregularity occurs as a resultof the random placement of the differently configured second portions. Ahighly attractive appearance is provided when the parts are contiguouslyarranged axially of the strip.

In the preferred embodiment, the strip of material comprises a first andsecond strands of metal, the second strand extending substantiallyaxially of the strip. The first strand is wound about the second strandso as to form the aforementioned plurality of parts. The strip is thenprocessed in accordance with the method of the invention to provideparts having first portions which are curevd, and second portions whichare substantially planar. The planar portions are rotatably positionedabout the axis of. the strip to achieve the irregular profile which isdesired. The ornamental element,

when so formed, is attached to or incorporated into a piece of jewelrysuch as a ring, pin, bracelet, or the like, to enhance the appearancethereof.

Broadly stated, the method of the invention comprises providing a stripof material having a plurality of parts proximately and adjacentlyarranged along the axis of the strip, compressing the parts to alter theconfiguration of a portion of the surface thereof, and twisting thestrip about its axis to rotatably position the altered portion of theparts at different locations about the axis of the strip. In thepreferred'form of the method of the invention, the strip is formedbywinding a metallic strand about another strand to form a plied strip ofmaterial. The plied strip is then passed between a pair of superposedrollers or the like to compress the outer surface of the outer metallicstrand. The compressed strip is then annealed to render it pliable sothat it may readily be manipulated in further processing steps.Thereafter, the annealed, compressed strip is twisted as by placing oneend in fixed engagement with an anchored member and rotating the otherend. The twisting step is preferably carried out in a direction oppositeto that in which the second strand is wound about the first strand. As aresult of the twisting step, the altered portions of the outer surfaceof the secondstrand are randomly positioned about the longitudinal axisof the first strand to pro vide a plurality of altered portions atvarious locations about the periphery of the strip thus achieving theeffect which is desired. If the strand is twisted tightly after theflattening and annealing step, the final product is characterized by aplurality of parts all of which are contiguous with each other.

To the accomplishment of the above, and to such other objects as mayhereinafter appear, the present invention relates to the construction ofan ornamental element as defined in the appended claims, and asdescribed in this specification, taken together with the accompanyingdrawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a pictorial view of a metallic strand as it is wound about acore strand to form a strip of material;

FIG. 2 is a schematic illustration of processing steps employed in theprocess of the invention, using the strip of FIG.

FIG. 3 is a cross sectional view of the strip of FIG. 1, after it isprocessed in accordance with the steps shown in FIG. 2;

FIG. 4 is a fragmented side elevational view of the apparatus which maybe employed to further process the plied strip of FIG. 2;

FIG. 5 is an idealized pictorial representation of one embodiment of theornamental element of the invention;

FIG. 6 is an enlarged perspective view of a piece of jewelryduringassembly using the ornamental element of FIG. 5;

FIG. 7 is front elevational view of a ring which incorporates as anaddition the ornamental element of FIG. 5; and

FIG. 8 is a plan view of an ornamental brooch which incorporates theornamental element of FIG. 5.

One form of the method of the invention may be observed by reference toFIGS. 1, 2 and 4. Referring to FIG. 1, there is illustrated a corestrand 10 about which a second strand l2is wound in the directionindicated byrthe arrow 14. The strands 10 and 12 may be in the form ofwire having a round cross section, so that the exposed surfaces of thestrand 12 are, at this stage in the process, entirely curved. It will benoted that the strand 12 is tightly wound about the strand 10 to providea strip of material 15 having a plurality of adjacent parts indicated bythe numeral 16, those parts 16 in the specific illustrated embodimentbeing deformed by adjacent turns of the wound strand 12. Preferably, thestrands 10 and 12 are composed at least in part of a metallic materialsuch as gold, silver or the like. Obviously the material should be suchas to impart an attractive appearance to the finished product, and alsoshould possess the properties necessary for it to be manipulatedsufiiciently so that the various parts 16 can be readily providedwithout uneconomical processing steps.

As illustrated in FIG. 2 the plied strip of material 15 comprisingstrands 10 and 12 is passed between a pair of superposed rollers 18 and20 which are spaced a distance sufficient to flatten the strip to adesired thickness. As noted, the upper and lower surfaces 22 and 24 ofthe outer strand 12 are flattened. At this stage of the process theplied strip 15 includes a plurality of parts 16 each of which hasexposed curved surface portions and exposed flattened or planar surfaceportions. In the illustration of FIG. 2, the planar surfaces are onopposite sides of the parts 16, as indicated by the reference numerals22 and 24. The cross sectional view illustrated in FIG. 3 shows that thesurfaces 22 and 24 of the parts 16 are flattened and the center or corestrand 12 is also flattened at least to some extent.

Referring again to FIG. 2, the flattened strip 15 is then passed throughan annealing chamber 26. The annealing step is provided for the purposesof softening the metal so that it is readily manipulated after cooling.Typical annealing comprises heating the strip 15 to a temperature ofabout l,300-l ,400 F. for about l minutes. Generally, annealing iscanied out with larger strips since these strips may be too brittle andmay shear during subsequent twisting. Smaller strips of material neednot be processed through the annealing chamber 26 in FIG. 2.

FIG. 4 illustrates in a fragmented view part of the apparatus which maybe employed for the next step of the process. The annealed strip whichemerges from the annealing chamber 26 in FIG. 2 is shown connected atone end to an anchored pin 30, and at the other end to a chuck 32. Thechuck 32 is driven by a motor means 34, and is rotated in a directionindicated by the'arrow 36.-The rotation is carried out until asubstantial number of the parts 16 have been rotated about the axis ofthe strip. It will be noted that the twisting as indicated by the arrow36 is in a direction opposite to that of winding the outer strand 12 onthe core strand 10. This opposite twisting has been discovered to beimportant to provide an ornamental element with a well defined profile.Twisting in the same direction as the winding of the strand 12 is alsosuccessful but since the tendency in this direction is to furthertighten the strands, a greater torsional force is required to randomlyposition the flattened surfaces 22 and 24 about the axis of the strip15. Moreover, the visual effect provided in this manner is not asdistinctive as when the strip is twisted in the opposite direction.

FIG. 5 illustrates in idealized form the ornamental element which isproduced by the process of FIGS. 1, 2 and 4. As shown in FIG. 5, theelement designated by the numeral 38 comprises the several parts 16which were shown in FIG. 1 as being the windings of the spirally woundstrand 12. In FIG. 5, however, these windings have undergone analteration in configuration. As noted; the flattened portions 22 and 24of the severalparts 16 are locatedat different positions about theperiphery of the core strand 10. The random location of these flattenedor planar portions of the parts 16 results from the twisting step shownin FIG. 4. Obviously variation in the orientation of the several partscan be effected by twisting the strip to a desired extent.

I After the element illustrated in FIG. 5 is produced, it may beattached to or incorporated into a basic jewelry member such asthoseshown in FIGS. 6 through 8. As an example, FIG. 6 illustrates in anenlarged view a ring such as a wedding band 40, which is provided with aplain outer surface 42 and flanged sections 44 and 46. An ornamentalelement 48 of the type herein disclosed, that is, comprising a pluralityof differently configured parts 49, is positioned directly below theupper flange 44 on the surface 42. The element 48 may be attached to thesurface 42 by any of the well known methods applied in the jewelrytrade, such as by welding or soldering. A.

second element 50 is shown in position just prior to being placed overthe surface 42. As noted, the element 50 is itself welded at the joint52. The welding at the joint 52 may be carried outprior to orpreferably, after placement about the surface 42 of the ring 40. Adesired number of such elements may be placed on the surface 42, and theresult is a highly decorative jewelry item. Other ornaments or jewelsmay be interposed betweenthe elements 48 and 50 to further enhance theappearance of the final product.

In FIG. 7 another item of jewelry, a diamond ring 54, is illustrated andincludes an annular band 56 and a diamond 58 placed in a pronged holder60. Ornamental elements 62 and 64 such as that shown in FIG. 5 arepositioned on the band 56 on two sides of the pronged holder 60, andprovide highly attractive ornamentation.

' Similarly, FIG. 8 illustrates a brooch or pin 66 in the form of a fishwhich comprises a base element 68, a jewel 70 attached to the baseelement 68 by prongs 72, and a plurality of ornamental elements typicalof the invention, designated by the numeral 74. The ornamental elementsare shown to be posi tioned in a side-by-side arrangement and extendfrom the tip or front portion 76 to the tail 78. g

The jewelry items illustrated in FIGS. 6 through 8 are merelyillustrative of many types of jewelry that may be employed with theornamental element of the invention. The addition of the element isreadily achieved in most jewelry items by simply affixing it in onemanner or another to a base part of the jewelry items. Thus, additionalitems of jewelry such as earrings, watchbands, cufflinks and the likemay also be decorated and their appearance improved by the addition ofthe ornamental element of the invention. I

It has been discovered that excellent results are obtained if thestrands 10 and 12 in FIG. 1 have a diameter ranging from about 0.005inch to about 0.030 inch. Smaller diameters for these strands generallywill cause the strip to shear when it is flattened. Thicker diametersthan 0.030 inch generally detract from the pleasant appearance of thefinished product since thick strands are not manipulated as easily andthe product is therefore not as attractive. In one example, a corestrand 10 was provided with a diameter of 0.020 inch and the outerstrand (12 in FIG. 1) had a diameter of 0.015 inch. The resultantproduct was highly attractive. When strands of these dimensions areemployed, it has been found desirable that the compression stepillustrated in FIG. 2 results in a thickness between flattened surfaces22 and 24 of about 0.015 inch to about 0.045 inch. This thickness rangehas proven to be excellent for obtaining the well defined ornamentalelement illustrated in FIG. 5.

While the invention has herein been described with reference to the useof several strands of metallic material wound about each other, andthereafter compressed and twisted, a wide variety of modifications maybe included. For example, the portions 22 and 24 of the parts 16illustrated in the drawing, may be provided with any configuration whichdifiers from the configuration of the remainder of the parts 16.Flattening the curved surface of the strand 12 is a simple manner ofaltering the configuration of the part. However, other attractiveelements may also be provided by other techniques, such as by crimpingthe surface of the parts so as to provide a small projection. Subsequenttwisting of the strip will then cause the projections to be located atdifferent positions about the axis of the strip withan attractiveappearance comparable to that shown with reference to the element ofFIG. 5. In addition, a single coiled wire properly configured may alsobe similarly processed to provide an attractive element. Furthermore,any manner of pressure application to alter the configuration of thesurface of the several parts may be employed and superposed rollers orcrimping tools are merely indicative of several types of pressureapplication which are successful. The twisting of the strip may beeffected in several ways; manual twisting of the strip has also beenfound successful. Materials typically employed in the jewelry trade suchas gold, silver, platinum and the like are generally easily manipulated,particularly when provided with the dimensions above set forth. Largescale production of ornamental elements typical of the invention usingthese materials is therefore readily achieved.

While but a limited number of embodiments of the present invention havebeen here specifically disclosed, it will be apparent that many othervariations may be made therein without departing from the spirit of theinvention.

I claim:

1. A method of forming an ornamental element comprising the steps of:

a. providing an axially extending strip of material comprising aplurality of connected parts proximately and adjacently arranged alongthe axis of said strip;

b. altering the configuration of portions of the surfaces of said partsat predetermined and generally similar locations about the periphery ofsaid strip; and

c. twisting said strip about its axis to rotatably position the alteredsurface portions of said parts at difierent locations about theperiphery of said strip, thereby to impart an irregular and attractiveprofile thereto.

2. The method of claim 1, in which step (a) comprises winding a firststrand of metallic material about a second strand of metallic materialwhich extends axially of said strip, said parts thereby comprising thewindings of said first strand.

3. The method of claim 2, in which said distorting step comprisesflattening a portion of the outer surface of said first strand ofmetallic material along the length of said stn'p, thereby to alter partof the peripheral configurations of the windings of said first strand.

4. The method of claim 3, in which the twisting of said strip is in adirection opposite to the direction of winding said first strand aboutsaid second strand.

5. The method of claim 3, in which the flattening of the windings ofsaid first strand is effected on opposite surfaces thereof.

6. In the method of claim 2, annealing said strip prior to twisting.

7. The method of claim 5, in which the flattening of said strip iscontinued until a strip thickness of between 0.015 inch and about 0.030inch is obtained.

8. The method of claim 2, in which each of said metallic strands has adiameter of between 0.005 inch and 0.030 inch.

9. The method of claim 8, in which said metallic strands comprise gold.

10. The method of claim 8, in which the flattening of said strip iscontinued until a strip thickness of between about 0.015 inch and about0.030 inch is obtained.

1 1. In the method of claim 1, attaching said ornamental element to anarticle of jewelry.

12. The method of claim 2, winding said first strand tightly around saidsecond strand to provide a plurality of contiguous windings thereabout.

13. The method of claim 1, in which said configuration of 7 portions ofthe surfaces of said parts are altered by flattening a portion of theouter surface of said strip along the length of said strip.

14. The method of claim 13, in which the flattening of said strip iseffected on opposite surfaces thereof.

15. in the method of claim 13, annealing said strip prior to twisting.

16. In the method of claim 13, attaching said ornamental element to anarticle of jewelry.

1. A method of forming an ornamental element comprising the steps of: a.providing an axially extending strip of material comprising a pluralityof connected parts proximately and adjacently arranged along the axis ofsaid strip; b. altering the configuration of portions of the surfaces ofsaid parts at predetermined and generally similar locations about theperiphery of said strip; and c. twisting said strip about its axis torotatably position the altered surface portions of said parts atdifferent locations about the periphery of said strip, thereby to impartan irregular and attractive profile thereto.
 2. The method of claim 1,in which step (a) comprises winding a first strand of metallic materialabout a second strand of metallic material which extends axially of saidstrip, said parts thereby comprising the windings of said first strand.3. The method of claim 2, in which said distorting step comprisesflattening a portion of the outer surface of said first strand ofmetallic material along the length of said strip, thereby to alter partof the peripheral configurations of the windings of said first strand.4. The method of claim 3, in which the twisting of said strip is in adirection opposite to the direction of winding said first strand aboutsaid second strand.
 5. The method of claim 3, in which the flattening ofthe windings of said first strand is effected on opposite surfacesthereof.
 6. In the method of claim 2, annealing said strip prior totwIsting.
 7. The method of claim 5, in which the flattening of saidstrip is continued until a strip thickness of between 0.015 inch andabout 0.030 inch is obtained.
 8. The method of claim 2, in which each ofsaid metallic strands has a diameter of between 0.005 inch and 0.030inch.
 9. The method of claim 8, in which said metallic strands comprisegold.
 10. The method of claim 8, in which the flattening of said stripis continued until a strip thickness of between about 0.015 inch andabout 0.030 inch is obtained.
 11. In the method of claim 1, attachingsaid ornamental element to an article of jewelry.
 12. The method ofclaim 2, winding said first strand tightly around said second strand toprovide a plurality of contiguous windings thereabout.
 13. The method ofclaim 1, in which said configuration of portions of the surfaces of saidparts are altered by flattening a portion of the outer surface of saidstrip along the length of said strip.
 14. The method of claim 13, inwhich the flattening of said strip is effected on opposite surfacesthereof.
 15. In the method of claim 13, annealing said strip prior totwisting.
 16. In the method of claim 13, attaching said ornamentalelement to an article of jewelry.